top male Climbers compared - European Bouldering Championships, Innsbruck 2015

  • Published on May 25, 2015
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    Comparison of top male climbers at the European Bouldering Championships in Innsbruck, starting with qualification round’s problem #3 in group B, that was only solved (in the last seconds) by Adam Ondra and Jan Hojer.
    The men’s semis and finals had interesting dynamics insofar as among the top four, Adam Ondra, Stefan Scarperi and Jakob Schubert all topped problems that no other competitor could climb.
    The semi-finals had extremely difficult boulder problems. The first one was topped only by Jakob Schubert, the second only by Adam Ondra, Michael Piccolruaz and 2009 world champion Alexey Rubtsov while problem #3 remained unconquered.
    Big names such as Gelmanov, Sharafudtinov and Glairon-Mondet failed to make it through to the last round and were replaced by Martin Stráník and Stefan Scarperi along with Rubtsov, Ondra, Hojer and Schubert.
    The first problem was topped by Ondra only. Unluckily for him, though, his flash attempt was halted because he had touched the marked off wall to the right during the dyno. He sent it second go.
    Jan Hojer produced an impressive flash of the second problem, a dyno to a hold that was out of sight, whilst Jakob Schubert managed to send it in the dying seconds of his round.
    The third problem was characterised by vertical symmetry as the holds were identical on both two sides. This resulted in many different types of beta, although the only athlete who actually managed to stick the extremely slick and slopy holds was Stefan Scarperi of Italy.
    Jan Hojer climbed climbed the last problem on his second attempt, securing the title. Adam Ondra came in second after climbing the last boulder in four attempts and, since no one else managed to reach its top, Stefan Scarperi held on to bronze. Just one attempts separated him from Jakob Schubert who had looked impressively strong throughout the qualifications and semi-final.
    climbers in this video and the final ranking
    1 Jan Hojer GER
    2 Adam Ondra CZE
    3 Stefan Scarperi ITA
    4 Jakob Schubert AUT
    5 Martin Stranik CZE
    6 Alexey Rubtsov RUS
    7 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
    10 Rustam Gelmanov RUS
    11 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS
    16 Mathias Conrad GER
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Comments • 93

  • Andrey Tokmachev
    Andrey Tokmachev Year ago +1

    Not "top make climbers compare", but "Adam Ondra highlights"

  • Cy Mcintosh
    Cy Mcintosh Year ago

    3:48 when Adam ondra is on both sides

  • Johannes
    Johannes Year ago

    Well, guess everything is better than listening to Ondras screams ; )

  • Tuzz Nation
    Tuzz Nation Year ago

    Can anyone tell me why sometimes they gotta touch the nobs like at 5:03. is it a rule? sorry, I have no idea about rock climbing or bouldering

  • Colin McMahon
    Colin McMahon Year ago

    Hojar is my favourite climber. But Jesus, Ondra is a machine.

  • kotsos tsoukas
    kotsos tsoukas Year ago

    Great Clip. Great people. Awesome Genius guys. anyone Knows the song at 2:20

  • Totallynotpanda
    Totallynotpanda Year ago

    Props for the editing, quality work right there ;)

  • ChrisMillerLite
    ChrisMillerLite 2 years ago

    this isnt a proper comparison because adam would be screaming and yelling if you didnt edit music over him

  • fabio
    fabio 2 years ago +1

    who won?

  • Northern85Star
    Northern85Star 2 years ago

    Such an interesting wall, the one with the purple circles on it. Was interesting to see the climbers doubting whether they would stick to the wall, but just having to go for it. Mindgames :)

  • Samuel Gonzalez
    Samuel Gonzalez 2 years ago +2

    If the greatest boulderers on the planet can barely do these, who makes them up?

    • Evan P
      Evan P 11 months ago

      Lol I was just about to google that

  • ABearNamedJohn -
    ABearNamedJohn - 2 years ago

    Jan is an absolute beast. Whenever I need climbing motivation I watch Jan Hojer

  • Still Breathing
    Still Breathing 2 years ago +1

    Really high quality video, great job.

  • Schleich by Eli CZ
    Schleich by Eli CZ 2 years ago

    I'm Czech Adam Ondra

    • TheRedBlood
      TheRedBlood 2 years ago

      Wejtovka je nej congratulations

  • David J
    David J 3 years ago

    looks easy until you try to do it

  • mako
    mako 3 years ago +3

    surprised ondra hasn't popped a blood vessel in his eye yet, he acts so autistic when he falls sometimes

    • Cake
      Cake Year ago +1

      Lol so harsh? First time on the internet?

    • John Hugon
      John Hugon 2 years ago

      Jeez dude, no need to be so harsh. I'm pretty sure you'd be at least a bit angry if you were one move away from sending an extremely hard climb, and then fell.

  • homiesfromrb
    homiesfromrb 3 years ago

    richtig musik unterlegung vorallem der hip hop beat

  • babs sodus
    babs sodus 3 years ago +1

    What is the first song please??

  • Marlon Mendez
    Marlon Mendez 3 years ago +9

    The side view cameras really help show how difficult these problems are.

  • YouTube User
    YouTube User 3 years ago

    very nice Video! more, please

  • daniel nenov
    daniel nenov 3 years ago +1

    Where is bulgaria???

  • unai alonso
    unai alonso 3 years ago

    porque adam ondra me las manos en agua?

  • R.B.
    R.B. 3 years ago +2

    The Italian had a couple of powerful moments there, when he pulled real hard on that small hold.

  • Ryan McQuillan
    Ryan McQuillan 3 years ago

    You guys have great videos

  • philipjwh2580
    philipjwh2580 3 years ago +12

    I find it hard to like Adam because of how angry he gets when he falls. I realise some would just say its because he's passionate, but to me it just looks like he's taking a tantrum.

    • goku
      goku 10 months ago

      who cares?

    • Jason W
      Jason W Year ago +6

      wait WHAT!?!?! Watch some of his videos, he's just about the most positive climber you will EVER see climb. That look has everything to do with passion and determination. He gets emotional when climbing all the time, but it is followed up with a huge smile, EVERY SINGLE TIME... He is the least negative person you will ever meet man, he has not the slightest ounce of negativity in him, not even slightly... He isn't an angry person at all, you just have to watch his vids and see how he is, that's all. Watch his videos and you wouldn't even feel remotely close to how you feel about him right now, you just got to believe me... Check out some of his documentaries, they are incredible to watch anyways.

    • Cake
      Cake Year ago

      ya, hes a fucking wierdo for sure.

    • liquidtunes
      liquidtunes 3 years ago +4

      Agreed. Some wouldn't mind, but I much prefer the cool celebration of Jan topping M4 to Adam's. Props to both, just saying. Ref 5:40

    • sfz82
      sfz82 3 years ago +14

      +philipjwh2580 to me it actually makes him more likeable, not less. given he shows such incredible strength in his climbing, it's nice to see he's human after all...

  • shahin khosravi
    shahin khosravi 3 years ago +2

    Great work, more of this please

  • Kate Therova
    Kate Therova 4 years ago +2

    Does anybody know the song that starts 4:27 till female vocals ?

    • whoever
      whoever 4 years ago

      +Kate Therova Its "Get Lost" by Niklas Gustavsson ft. Lucy you can find it on soundcloud or YT. Awesome track!!

    JAN JAN 4 years ago +2

    really REALLY nice video man

  • Joe Maki
    Joe Maki 4 years ago

    This is not even real climbing, they are pussies

    • 1337Jogi
      1337Jogi 3 years ago +1

      +Joe Maki ...calls the propably best best rockclimber of the world a pussy

    • Lt Baumy
      Lt Baumy 4 years ago +1

      +Joe Maki "Meat is for pussies"
      Those guys are giants!

  • solinero
    solinero 4 years ago

    great video also nice music!

  • Maz karcidd
    Maz karcidd 4 years ago +1

    Why is that dude going so slow

  • Ana Brizola
    Ana Brizola 4 years ago


  • stephen hunt
    stephen hunt 4 years ago

    This is not bouldering. These guys need to go out into the real world and do some real climbing.

  • Greg Felice
    Greg Felice 4 years ago

    great tunes. what is that playing at around 5:30?

  • Clark Gubbins
    Clark Gubbins 4 years ago

    Great video. What's the track at 6.11?

  • simosimeonov_
    simosimeonov_ 4 years ago +11

    Awesome video and great music! Can you write down the names of the tracks, please? :D

    • Michael Jöst
      Michael Jöst 2 years ago

      first song is Print by MindxFactory, dont know what the other songs are

  • сергей груздов

    что за трек на 4.15 подскажите!!!

  • Christian Rodgers
    Christian Rodgers 4 years ago +16

    After watching this for a few minutes I realized my hands were sweating profusely. xD

  • Tim S.
    Tim S. 4 years ago +4

    pls whats the name of the tracks at 0:01, 6:21, 12:40 ?

  • Jireh Climaco
    Jireh Climaco 4 years ago +9

    Adam's ability and passion is very inspiring!

  • Jojo Raup
    Jojo Raup 4 years ago

    Didn't Jan flash the last problem?

  • kai peersmann
    kai peersmann 4 years ago

    Adam is the man!!

  • Frederico Quintão
    Frederico Quintão 4 years ago +2

    Udini, you rock!!!

  • Juan de Brigard
    Juan de Brigard 4 years ago +2

    Thanks for the good music as well. Always apreciated.

  • Gullshunter
    Gullshunter 4 years ago

    what does sole attempt/ascent mean?

    • Simon Huthwaite
      Simon Huthwaite 4 years ago

      It means the only ascent/send if the problem during the competition...

  • Paolo Marcotulli
    Paolo Marcotulli 4 years ago

    Con le dita bagnate si scivola ,asciutte é molto meglio

  • Kai Ewert
    Kai Ewert 4 years ago

    M4 (finals) would have made a great overlay video, too - at the beginning, Jan and Adam looked "deckungsgleich" :)

  • Kai Ewert
    Kai Ewert 4 years ago +1

    Great video, thank you.
    Very subtle differences seem to make or break an ascent. Jakob Schubert seemed the most "unaufgeregt" on the dyno in M1 (Semis).
    Stefan Scarperi seemed to keep just a tad closer to the wall on M3 (finals), but was that a result of superior finger strength or the difference that allowed his fingers to hold on?
    And I could not see the difference between Adam's successful and Jakob's unsuccessful attempt on M1 (Finals)...

  • Raumance
    Raumance 4 years ago +35

    Quality fucking video. Thanks for making this.

  • Frank Heiser
    Frank Heiser 4 years ago

    Nice vid, thanx for the clear editing so there is enough time to actualy watch the combing! ;)

  • Iszil
    Iszil 4 years ago

    Amazing problems! The pink circles one was sick.

  • kochos leavemealonegplus
    kochos leavemealonegplus 4 years ago +2

    hi Udo, I wanted to ask you in Innsbruck but I forgot, can you tell me why Jan never uses his little fingers? He always uses 3 fingers, even if there is plenty of room. Is it just preference?

    • kochos leavemealonegplus
      kochos leavemealonegplus 4 years ago

      :( damn

    • Syakir Ahmad
      Syakir Ahmad 4 years ago

      @kochos leavemealonegplus i had a same injuries in same place behind my left ankle and i took almost 5 months to fully recovered..

    • kochos leavemealonegplus
      kochos leavemealonegplus 4 years ago

      thx...3 months later still in physio :(

    • Syakir Ahmad
      Syakir Ahmad 4 years ago +1

      +kochos leavemealonegplus get well soon bro.

    • kochos leavemealonegplus
      kochos leavemealonegplus 4 years ago

      thanks for reply @udini when i recover from my current ankle injury I'll definitely experiment with that!

  • OnBouldering
    OnBouldering 4 years ago +3

    The fourth problem in group B was also solved by Andrzej Mecherzynski-Wiktor, from Poland in 4 attempts (and in less time than Adam and Jan!)

  • GobekzZz
    GobekzZz 4 years ago

    Top video like always :)

  • Simon U.
    Simon U. 4 years ago

    Wonderfull video, as always. But what's the track called starting at 4:15?

    • Stuntwerk Köln
      Stuntwerk Köln 4 years ago

      @Simon U. Get lost by Niklas Gustavsson, featuring Lucy

  • Skyfox94
    Skyfox94 4 years ago +1

    Geiles Vid. Freu mich umso mehr wenn ich wieder an die Wand kann

  • hyeok lee
    hyeok lee 4 years ago

    Thanks for sharing this great video mr udini. Im your big fan!

  • prozeza
    prozeza 4 years ago +7

    What is Adam dipping his fingers into?

    • robert13605
      robert13605 3 years ago +2

      bitches like it rough

    • Casper Kristiansen
      Casper Kristiansen 4 years ago +2

      @udini It's because, he has extremely dry skin... Source: Adrian explains is during the livestream in Innsbruck.

    • prozeza
      prozeza 4 years ago +4

      @udini Thanks for the explanation. :)

    • udini
      udini  4 years ago +42

      @prozeza his skin was too hard. Good for rock, not so good for plastic slopers!

    • prozeza
      prozeza 4 years ago

      @William Point What for?